In the bustling world of auction houses, textiles often emerge as fascinating remnants of history, each piece carrying a unique story. From vintage high fashion designer pieces to rare children's clothing from the Georgian period, the variety is endless. Every item tells a tale of fashion trends, social norms, and the painstaking labour of artisans.

One of the first memorable items I encountered was a Biba tiger pattern two-piece trouser suit, complete with 15-inch flare trousers. Immediately captivating, the suit encapsulated the vibrant history of the Swinging Sixties. Its iconic shape and cut remain as dazzling as ever.

Biba, a revolutionary fashion house which emerged in the 1960s, gained massive popularity, renowned for its bold prints and youthful style. Some of its outfits were in such high demand that when released they surpassed expectations and sold in their thousands – what we would consider as ‘going viral’ in today’s terms, as Devon Life discovered.

A collection of 18th and 19th century clothing sold this year at auction. A collection of 18th and 19th century clothing sold this year at auction. (Image: Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood) Such iconic designer fashion pieces, along with Georgian period costumes,1920s flapper dresses, vintage wedding dresses, military uniforms, and much more, frequently pass through our doors at Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood in Exeter, each adding a new layer to our understanding of fashion history.

Sometimes, it is not the clothing itself but fragments that tell a story.

Brian Goodison-Blanks, head of our Collectors department says: ‘Past sales have showcased Woodbury Salterton lace, meticulously crafted in Devon by students at the Woodbury Lace School. This particular lace was used for Queen Alexandra’s wedding dress, accompanied by correspondence.

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‘Many years ago, we handled garments from the Queen Mother’s dressmaker, including a letter from the Queen Mother herself, expressing concerns about the cost of clothes for a Commonwealth tour’.

This Art Deco 'flapper' black beaded dress with a peach coloured underdress came with its associated box from Harrods. This Art Deco 'flapper' black beaded dress with a peach coloured underdress came with its associated box from Harrods. (Image: Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood) These examples serve as a poignant reminder of the personal connections woven into these textiles.

More recently, we discovered a collection of exquisite Georgian textiles in a trunk at a South Devon property. The selection included beautifully embroidered silk tailcoats from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, which were remarkably well preserved with colours that retained much of their vibrancy.

Among the haul were examples of children's clothing from the period, such as babies’ bonnets, socks, and other pieces.

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These plainer everyday items are often discarded in favour of more elaborate costumes, making their discovery a rarity. Although less vibrant, they offer a glimpse into everyday Georgian life, showcasing the contrast between the elaborate and the mundane.

A pair of child's wool socks with blue embroidery; together with two single child's wool socks, each with articulated high heel; 16th century and later. A pair of child's wool socks with blue embroidery; together with two single child's wool socks, each with articulated high heel; 16th century and later. (Image: Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood) Due to the nature of the material, silk survives much better than wool, making wool garments scarce. This collection included a pair of 16th century child's wool socks with blue embroidery, which fetched £140 at auction, while a George III gentleman's three-piece ivory suit comprising a wool tailcoat, breeches, and a silk waistcoat embroidered with metal thread and sequins, sold for £2,000.

More recently a late 18th century silk and floral embroidered open dress in the Marie Antoinette style was consigned for sale. This open dress design, known as the robe à la Française, revealed a contrasting or matching underskirt, and would have been worn over wide panniers (or side hoops) to exaggerate the hips and fitted boddice.

These architectural garments, designed to create the desired silhouette of the period, provide a stark contrast to the flowing 60s shapes and fabrics we are now accustomed to.

An 18th-century gentleman's blue silk tailcoat, with silver thread embroidery. An 18th-century gentleman's blue silk tailcoat, with silver thread embroidery. (Image: Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood) Throughout the period, the garments often consisted of excessive use of fabrics (often costly silks), labour-intensive floral patterns, exaggerated hairstyles, and bold shapes - highlighting the theatricality and sensuality of 18th century fashion.

These dresses were often altered to keep up with changing fashions and handling them allows us to briefly bask in the opulence of the era.

The allure of these historical textiles is magnified by modern cultural phenomena like the TV series Bridgerton. This American historical romance, set in an alternative Regency-era London, has sparked a renewed interest in Regency fashion with its exquisite costumes.

A sampler from The Central School's Instruction on Needle-work and Knitting. A sampler from The Central School's Instruction on Needle-work and Knitting. (Image: Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood) At the other end of the scale, needlework and knitting books from students show the hardship of the 19th century.

One of our previous book auctions featured ‘Instructions for Needle Work and Knitting’, a volume from 1829 showcasing miniature examples of needlework by pupils of The Central School in London. A ‘penny club’, created by the ladies committee to provide work for the lower classes and education for the poor, allowed children to subscribe and acquire clothing for the cost of materials only, without any charge for the labour (because they made it themselves). This book, which included real samples of various knitting and needle-work projects, such as a baby's bonnet and a small sampler of an alphabet, sold for a hammer price of £5,500.

A late 18th century silk and floral embroidered open dress. A late 18th century silk and floral embroidered open dress. (Image: Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood) The survival of clothing is remarkable considering its fragility and daily use. Each piece prompts us to imagine the lives of its original wearers and marvel at the differences from our own time. We can only wonder if future generations will examine our clothes with the same curiosity, deciphering the tastes and fashions of our era.

The textiles that come through our auction house doors are more than mere garments; they are historical artefacts that connect us to the past. They reveal the labour of artisans, the evolution of fashion, and the personal stories of their wearers. Each piece, whether a vibrant Biba suit or a delicate Georgian tailcoat, invites us to play dress-up with history, allowing us to explore our past.

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